Got the 12:06 Penzance train from Paddington. Had an airline seat in standard class - surprised how much leg room you get in these. The afternoon was clear and sunny, with very good visibility. The low sun lighting-up the late autumn colours, and making for some particularly attractive scenery. This is actually quite a scenic journey, since after Reading the line only really goes through two towns of any size - Exeter and Plymouth. Most of the route is through open countryside (or skirting what few other towns there are, such as Newbury), and is quite varied: the Vale of Pewsey; Somerset Levels (with a distant and very prominent Glastonbury Tor); the dramatic coastal section between Exeter and Teignmouth; the rolling hills of South Hams with tantalising glimpses of Dartmoor; crossing the Tamar on Brunel's unique 150 year-old Royal Albert Bridge. There is plenty to look at out of the window on the four hour journey.
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| White Hart Hotel, St Austell |
Arrived in St Austell just after 4pm. Just a short walk down the hill to the centre of the town and my hotel - The White Hart Hotel, right by the large 15th century parish church. The White Hart is an impressive 18th century granite building run as a hotel (17 rooms) and bar by the St Austell Brewery. The stylishly decorated bar is open with the hotel reception and lounge, but this does feel like a hotel (with a good bar), rather than a pub with rooms. The bar and lounge (with open fire) have a relaxed atmosphere, and I felt quite comfortable there sitting on my own reading with a pint of Tribute. The service (reception, bar and restaurant) was excellent - very friendly, thoughtful and efficient. My room was quite satisfactory - comfortable and clean with modern furnishings. A little small perhaps, and the 18th century (listed) sash windows were quite difficult to close properly, but perfectly adequate. I would certainly not hesitate to stay here again (although I understand that it is very noisy at weekends).
Had dinner in the hotel restaurant - the Walter Hicks (who founded the St Austell Brewery in 1851). Cornish sausages and mash accompanied by a pint of "Podium" (a limited edition IPA produced to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the acquisition of the Hotel by the St Austell Brewery), followed by saffron poached pear with clotted cream. Food was pretty good. Not quite gourmet, but certainly a couple of notches above usual good pub food.
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