Sunday, November 27, 2011

Helford walk

Cornwall trip - Day 11

Weather forecast is good, although still very windy first thing. Decide to do the walk from Helford to Falmouth, although at 10 miles it is my most ambitious so far.

10:00 bus from Falmouth to Helford Passage. Arr. 10:20

Walk down to the Ferryboat Inn and the beach - the first of several lovely beaches today. It is perfectly quiet. Sunny. Calm. Still. Warm. In conditions like this I can understand why some describe the Helford River as idyllic.

Walk east along the first north shore past the numerous sub-tropical gardens in the valleys leading down to the river - Trebah, Glendurgan etc. Decide to leave visiting these to a more appropriate time of year. Durgan beach is nice though, with its attractive 19th century quayside schoolhouse.

Continue on to Mawnan Glebe, passing an idyllic green fold in the hills with a lone tree that I somehow found iconic - I photographed it from several aspects. Fabulous views down the Helford River from here too.

On, round Rosemullion Head, which is a bit wilder, and past the charming looking Meudon Hotel gardens. Finally reach Maenporth Beach - spectacularly long and shallow at low tide. Stop for coffee and home-made fruitcake at the 'Life's a Beach' beach cafe.

Another mile or so on to Swanpool, on the outskirts of Falmouth. Obviously a very popular spot on a Sunday. Then the almost final (and almost mud-free) half mile to Gyllyngvase Beach, where I stop for a beer at the Gylly Beach Cafe and watch the paddle-boarders.

A short stroll along the cliff road and I am back at the B&B at about half four. So, six hours walk in total - including stops.

Coffee, shower, and change, and then out to find something to eat. Rather fancy a steak, to settle on the Warehouse Bistro by Custom House Quay, which looks cosy, clean and friendly, and there are diners at three other tables (more than most of the other restaurants I looked at). Had the house style fillet steak,which came topped with bacon and Cornish brie - really tasty actually! For dessert I decided on the Trio of crème brûlée - one blueberry, one chocolate, and one vanilla. This being Cornwall, you also got a huge dollop of clotted cream (as if there wasn't enough cream in it already). This also came with a special crème brûlée spoon which had tiny teeth filed into the tip.

After dinner, went back to the Chain Locker for a pint of Skinner's 'Heligan Honey' - possibly a bit too summery for this time of year, so had Doom Bar after that.

No comments:

Post a Comment