Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Eltham





Good weather today, if rather windy. I decided to go to Eltham Palace and do some of the Green Chain Walk (rather more than I had envisaged, as it turned-out).

11:30 Walked to New Cross station.

Train: 12:03 New Cross to Falconwood 12:20. Southeastern train from Cannon Street to Slade Green, £1.80 on Oyster PAYG.

From Falconwood I followed the Green Chain Walk (section 7) south to New Eltham and then Mottingham and the delightful park The Tarn with its lake and ancient ice well (as well as some very cute squirrels). Then through Middle Park and the donkey sanctuary and along King John's Walk from where there were spectacular views west over the city. Stopped for an hour or so at Eltham Palace to explore the gardens and the house itself.

Eltham Palace (Wikipediawas fascinating, much more interesting and varied than I had imagined. I started off by walking around the gardens. There is an impressive moat which is now heavily ornamentalised, and a number of different gardens and landscaped areas, some of which follow, or incorporate, remnants of the medieval palace. The only significant bit of the original palace remaining is the 15th century Great Hall, which has an impressive hammerbeam roof. 

The entrance into the house itself is a bit disconcerting, since they have retained the institutional layout and decor of that wing from the period when the house was used by the Royal Army Educational Corps (from the time the Coutaulds left in 1945 to 1992). It is all plain pale green partition walls and vinyl flooring. However, this only enhances the effect of entering into the wonderful 1930s Art Deco entrance hall. Designed by the Swedish designer Rolf Engströmer, the circular, wood panelled room has a spectacular glazed dome and replica 1930s rug and furniture. Interesting to note that the marquetry by the entrance door includes views of Stockholm (in particular, the City Hall) and a Viking figure (with horned helmet). 

There are lots of rooms to explore, with original and/or replica decor and furniture, including the Courtauld's day rooms and bedrooms (with their en-suite bathrooms). Other parts of the building have been retained as officers' quarters. There is quite a lot to see here, and I didn't even get half-way through the audio guide (not a bad one, for a change). I think that I will have to come back again.

From Eltham Palace I continued north following the Green Chain Walk (section 6) past the old Tudor conduit head (which supplied water to Eltham Palace), through Eltham Park South and North, Shepherdleas Wood and Oxleas Wood (fantastic ancient oak woodland) to Oxleas Meadows, which was lovely in the late afternoon sun. 

From Oxleas Meadows I continued on section 5 of the Green Chain Walk round to Severndroog Castle (sadly looking a little neglected) and across Shooters Hill to Woolwich Common. Unlike some commons which are not much more than recreation grounds, Woolwich Common seems much more like a "proper" common. It has a "rough", open feel, and is almost heath-like in parts. There are great views of the temporary Olympic venues at the Royal Artillery Barracks at the north (lower) end of the common. 

The route then goes through Hornfair and Charlton Parks, which are not terribly interesting, and into the wonderful Maryon Wilson Park. This starts off by descending into a small, deep wooded valley. There is an amazing microclimate here, and the drop in temperature as I walked down was really quite striking. It must have got at least five degrees cooler in a matter of minutes. At the north end of the park there is an interesting looking park farm. Must come back here to have a proper look around.
 
I continued on over the hill to Maryon Park and down through the Barrier gardens to the Thames Barrier. Unfortunately, the Thames Path tunnel through the barrier control building was closed, so I had to walk back around the buildings to pick-up the path on the other side and continue west to the Anchor & Hope pub by the river at Charlton, and a very welcome rest with a couple of pints of Sharp's Doom Bar.

 

 

Walk: 12:25 Falconwood Station; Gravel Pit Lane; 12:45 Avery Hill Park; 13:00 New Eltham Station; 13:15 Fairy Hill Park; 13:25 Mottingham Station and The Tarn; 13:45 King John's Walk; 14:00 Eltham Palace - 15:15; 15:30 Conduit Head; Conduit Meadows; Eltham Park South; 15:55 Long Pond, Eltham Park North; Shepherdleas Wood; Oxleas Wood; 16:15 Oxleas Meadow Cafe; Jackwood; 16:35 Severndroog Castle; Eltham Common; 16:50 Woolwich Common; Hornfair Park; Charlton Park; 17:15 Maryon Wilson Park; Maryon Park; 17:35 Thames Barrier; 17:50 Anchor & Hope, Charlton. 14.2 miles
 

View Eltham 16/10/2012 12:23 in a larger map

Walk stats:
Total distance: 22.85 km (14.2 mi)
Total time: 5:31:49
Moving time: 3:38:13
Average speed: 4.13 km/h (2.6 mi/h)
Average moving speed: 6.28 km/h (3.9 mi/h)
Average pace: 14.52 min/km (23.4 min/mi)
Average moving pace: 9.55 min/km (15.4 min/mi)

Photo gallery:
Eltham

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